Bunny Care Info

Feeding Guide

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Pellets

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Your bunny should receive ½ cup of pellets per day. Try to feed at the same time each day to help your bunny establish a routine. It’s very important to choose a high-quality pellet free from corn, seeds, dried fruit, grains, vegetables, or soy. Nearly all pet-store brands contain one or more of these ingredients, which can be harmful to your bunny’s sensitive digestive system. Soy, grains, and seeds are highly inflammatory and can lead to serious health issues over time. I highly recommend Sherwood brand pellets-they are the best on the market for maintaining a healthy, happy rabbit. If you adopted from us, your bunny is already accustomed to this food, and I strongly encourage you to keep them on it. Rabbits have very delicate digestive systems, and sudden diet changes can trigger serious issues like GI Stasis, which can be fatal. You can order Sherwood pellets online at a great price with fast shipping.

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Your bunny also needs fresh water available at all times. We personally use reverse osmosis filtered water, but any filtered water is perfectly fine. Our bunnies are used to using water bottles, though you may switch to a water dish if you prefer-just make sure it’s kept clean and filled daily.

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Hay

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Hay should make up the majority of your bunny’s diet-it’s absolutely essential for good health! The fiber in hay keeps their digestive system running smoothly, and constant chewing naturally wears down their teeth.

 

Offer unlimited fresh hay every day. All of our bunnies are fed Orchard and Timothy hay (2nd and 3rd cut) from Small Pet Select. It’s fresher, greener, and far more cost-effective than small pet-store bags, which can be old, dusty, or even contain mites. You can conveniently order online, and they ship directly to your home.

Use my discount code REF-AIMEES for 15% off your entire order!

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Veggies + Fruits

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Vegetables should be treated as an occasional treat, not a main food source. Some bunnies tolerate veggies well, while others have more sensitive tummies.

• Begin introducing veggies slowly around 3–4 months of age, starting with a thumb-sized piece of leafy greens.

• Suitable veggies include romaine, spinach, mixed greens, basil, parsley, cilantro, and kale.

• Avoid iceberg lettuce (causes diarrhea) and cruciferous vegetables like broccoli and cabbage (cause gas).

• I do not recommend fruit-even small amounts of sugar can upset a rabbit’s gut and lead to serious digestive issues.

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When your new bunny comes home, wait about one month before introducing greens, and add them gradually. If your bunny’s hay intake drops or stool becomes loose, stop the veggies temporarily.If your bunny ever stops eating or pooping for 12+ hours, contact a vet immediately-this can be a medical emergency.

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Treats & Supplements

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• You may give a small pinch of raw, organic rolled oats daily (no more than 1 teaspoon). Avoid flavored or instant oats. They make a wonderful bonding treat-many bunnies will take them right from your hand!

• I use Sherwood Herbal Supplement Tablets for added nutrition. These can be ordered along with your pellets from Sherwood. Follow the directions on the package for feeding.

• Avoid all pet-store treats like yogurt drops, salt licks, and seed sticks-they are unhealthy and can harm your rabbit’s digestive system.

• Small Pet Select makes healthy, natural treats that are safe and tasty.

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You can also add 1 teaspoon of raw, unfiltered organic apple cider vinegar (such as Bragg’s with “The Mother”) to your bunny’s water bottle for two weeks on, two weeks off. This helps support digestion, urinary tract health, and nutrient absorption-and most bunnies love the taste!

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Housing & Environment

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Your bunny needs a large, comfortable living area with plenty of space to hop, stretch, and play- the bigger, the better! Please avoid the small cages sold in most pet stores, as they are far too cramped for a rabbit’s needs.

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I do not recommend hutches- they are difficult to clean, too small and poorly ventilated. Bunnies should always live indoors, where their environment can be controlled, clean, and safe. Playpens make wonderful indoor setups and are easy to customize for your space. If you choose to allow your bunny to free roam, make sure your home is completely bunny-proofed:

• Cover or secure electrical cords.

• Remove plants that may be toxic.

• Avoid items that could tip or fall.

• Expect the occasional potty accident-if you need a perfectly litter-trained pet, a bunny might not be the right fit.

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Bunnies are very sensitive so it’s important to use safe and non toxic cleaning supplies when sanitizing their cages, litter pans, and toys. I like to use the brand Seventh Generation for sanitizing my cages and litter pans. To clean their water bottles and crocks I use some vinegar and hot water. Be sure to rinse everything thoroughly with hot water. Never use bleach or any other harsh chemicals to clean. It’s also important to make sure you don’t spray any harsh air fresheners in a bunnies area or have strong candles/incense/essential oils burning. A well ventilated area with fresh air is best.

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​Bunnies need toys to play with to keep them from getting bored. I use the large dog/cat balls from the dollar store. They are inexpensive, easy to clean, and the bunnies love them. I also save toilet paper and paper towel rolls to make toys. I stuff them with timothy grass hay or orchard hay and put them in their cages. The bunnies love these and it's a great way to give them their hay. Woven grass balls and non-toxic wooden toys from Small Pet Select are great options as well. 

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 Recommended Cage Setup

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If you prefer a cage, I recommend the Midwest Wabbitat Deluxe Home (47” x 24”) with the extension kit for adequate space.

• Clean and sanitize the cage weekly with hot water and pet-safe disinfectant.

• The included water bottle often leaks; I recommend a Lixit brand water bottle- it's the most reliable I’ve found. Always tap the metal spout after refilling to make sure water flows freely.

• You may also use a heavy water dish, but keep it filled with fresh water daily.

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Use a hay rack to keep hay clean and off the cage floor, and choose a heavy ceramic or locking food bowl that won’t tip. 

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Litter Box & Bedding

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Provide a jumbo-sized litter box (never the small ones meant for rabbits). Large cat litter boxes work great, as long as they’re open and door-free.

• Clean the litter box daily.

• Use pine pellets as litter- they’re safe, absorbent, and control odor well. You can find them at Small Pet Select or Tractor Supply.

• Avoid newspaper, cat litter, or puppy pads, as these can be unsafe or harmful if ingested.

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Exercise & Playtime

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Your bunny needs at least 2 hours of supervised exercise and playtime each day. This helps with both physical health and bonding!

If you take your bunny outdoors:

• Always supervise and ensure no predators (birds, dogs, etc.) can access the area.

• Never leave your bunny unattended.

• Avoid outdoor time on hot days above 75–80°F, as bunnies are prone to heatstroke.

• Make sure grass is free from fertilizers and chemicals.

• In cooler weather, short play sessions outside are fine if it’s above freezing and dry.

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Handling Your Bunny Safely

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Please understand that bunnies are ground-dwelling prey animals, which means being picked up often feels scary and unnatural to them. This doesn’t mean they aren’t friendly or social-it’s simply part of their instinct for survival. Keep this in mind when deciding if a bunny is the right pet for you. If you’re looking for an animal that enjoys being carried or cuddled frequently, a kitten or puppy may be a better fit.

 

Of course, you’ll still need to handle your bunny occasionally-for example, when moving them in and out of their enclosure or carrier for vet visits. The safest way to lift your bunny is from the side, so they can see you coming. Avoid approaching from the front, as bunnies have a blind spot directly in front of their face and may startle easily. When holding your bunny, support both their upper body and hind legs, keeping them close to your body- similar to holding a football. Rabbits have delicate spines, and if they kick or struggle too hard, they can seriously injure themselves. Always help young children when handling or transferring a bunny.​ Never pick up a bunny by the ears or scruff.

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If you’d like to enjoy cuddle time, the safest way is to sit on the floor and let your bunny rest on your lap. This way, if they decide to hop away, they’re close to the ground and won’t get hurt. Be mindful that their nails can be sharp, and occasional scratches may happen during handling. If your bunny has a fall or shows signs of injury, contact your veterinarian right away for guidance.

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Litter Training

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If you’re using a solid-bottom cage, I do not recommend adding bedding across the entire floor. Through years of experience, I’ve found it to be unsanitary, confusing for litter training, and an unnecessary expense. To successfully litter train your bunny, place litter or bedding only in the litter pan. If bedding is spread throughout the cage, your bunny may think the whole floor is their bathroom. This can lead to hygiene issues and potential illness from sitting in waste.

 

I use all-natural pine pellet bedding from Small Pet Select exclusively in the litter boxes. These pellets do an excellent job of reducing odor and keeping the area fresh.

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 Avoid the following materials:

• Newspaper (toxic ink that can stain fur)

• Cat litter or puppy pads (dangerous if ingested)

• Pine or cedar shavings (can cause respiratory problems)

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Setting Up the Litter Box

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• Place the litter pan in a corner of your bunny’s enclosure.

• If you notice your bunny choosing a different corner, move the litter box there. You can even scoop a few droppings into the box to help them understand where to go.

• Some bunnies prefer two litter boxes-especially in larger enclosures or playpens.

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All of our babies begin potty training from birth, so when they go to their new homes, they are usually mostly litter trained in their cages.

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 Free Roaming & Training Tips

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When your bunny is adjusting to a new environment, start by limiting their free-roam space using a puppy pen or gated area. As they improve, you can gradually expand their space. Many families choose to have multiple litter boxes in different areas of the home. Consistency and patience are key! Spaying or neutering your bunny at around 6 months of age will significantly improve litter training success.

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Remember, bunnies aren’t quite like cats-occasional stray poops are normal. Rabbits can produce 200–300 tiny droppings per day, so daily cleaning is essential.

If you prefer, you can place a fleece blanket or towel at the bottom of the cage for comfort. Only do this if your bunny does not chew fabric, as fibers can cause digestive blockages that are life-threatening. If you notice any chewing, remove it immediately. Clean and sanitize the litter box daily with hot water to maintain hygiene and prevent odors.

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Bringing Your Bunny Home & Ongoing Care

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When you first bring your bunny home, it’s very important to give them time to adjust to their new surroundings. Allow them to slowly get used to new sounds, smells, and people. Rabbits are sensitive animals, and too much stress can be dangerous, so take things slowly. During the first 24 hours, monitor your bunny closely to make sure they are eating, drinking, and eliminating normally. Watch for signs of watery stools, and confirm that they are pooping and peeing regularly.

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 Grooming & Nail Care

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• Brush your bunny at least once a week, and more often during shedding seasons.

• Rabbits typically molt (shed) twice a year, and daily brushing during this time helps prevent fur ingestion and GI blockages. Because rabbits can’t vomit, swallowed fur can quickly lead to GI stasis, which is serious and potentially fatal.

• Never give your bunny a bath. Bathing is extremely stressful for rabbits and can cause shock or death. They keep themselves clean, much like cats.

  • If spot cleaning is needed (for example, a soiled bottom), use a warm damp washcloth or unscented baby wipe and dry them completely afterward.

• Trim your bunny’s nails every 6–8 weeks. Use cat nail clippers and avoid cutting past the pink “quick” inside the nail, which can cause bleeding. Keep styptic powder on hand in case of accidents.

• I recommend the Small Pet Select Hair Buster Comb for regular grooming-it’s gentle and effective.

• If you’re not comfortable trimming nails, your rabbit-savvy vet can do it for you.

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Teeth & Health Checks

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Rabbits’ teeth grow continuously, so check them regularly for overgrowth or abnormalities. If you notice changes in eating habits, drooling, or reluctance to eat, see a vet immediately.

Your bunny should have a yearly checkup with a rabbit-savvy veterinarian. Contact your vet right away if you notice any of the following warning signs:

• Watery diarrhea (not to be confused with normal cecotropes, which are soft, sticky, blackberry-like poops)

• Refusal to eat or drink

• Sitting hunched over or grinding teeth

• Lethargy or loss of balance

• Head tilt or unsteady movement

• Wheezing or labored breathing

• Patches of missing fur

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 Spaying & Neutering

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Consider having your bunny spayed or neutered around 6 months of age. This can dramatically improve litter training, reduce hormonal behaviors (such as lunging, nipping, and digging), and prevent certain health issues. Discuss this option with your vet to determine what’s best for your bunny.